Myth Busting SPF
/by Dr Jemima Grant
MBBS (HONS) BSC (MED) (HONS) BA FRACGP FACAM
GP & AESTHETIC PHYSICIAN
It’s already been a really hot Spring, and I have seen a lot of sunburn!
This month, I'll be showcasing all the different SPF options we have in the clinic and encouraging you all to stock up and use the CORRECT PRODUCT and CORRECT DOSE.
SPF is "in" at the moment, but it's important to recognise that it's not a BEAUTY PRODUCT. It's not designed to "make your skin glow," act as a "concealer" or "foundation," or makeup. If you have ever had a consultation with me, you know that I will ask very specific information about your SPF use.
Something I hear every day is that patients are using their makeup or BB cream or "sunscreen" as an SPF. Or worse, that they are using their SPF, but just a tiny bit as it makes their skin look "glowy."
In general, a lot of people (especially young women!) are using sunscreens as a COSMETIC, not THERAPEUTIC intervention.
This means that, although it might look good, it's not being used at the correct DOSE to protect you from UV light. This means a false sense of security - your risk of developing skin cancer, pigmentation, redness, and wrinkles! Please use the correct dose; your future self will thank you.
I hear this all the time. Sunscreen should be seen as a medical product - it has a recommended dose and treatment time. So, apply your SPF at the correct dose, and then use your makeup separately. Any additional SPF it produces is a bonus!
How Much Should I use?
The Cancer Council Australia and the TGA recommend the following:
Face: 1/4 teaspoon or 1.25 ml (this is enough to cover your entire face evenly).
Face, neck, and ears: 1/2 teaspoon or 2.5 ml of sunscreen.
Décolletage: 1/2 teaspoon. (I've estimated that the surface area is approximately the same as the face/neck)
I also give my patients a syringe, so they can measure how much they are using, or the shot glass analogy is helpful too!
A shot glass for the exposed part of the body.
Sprays: These products are a great idea, in theory. HOWEVER, after reading the entire guidelines from the TGA on sunscreens, note the advice about dose - a typical adult would need about 40ml of aerosol, which for most brands is "1/3 of a can of aerosol" for the whole body. No joke. So if you are using this on your child, make sure you are using enough. Also, consider that some pediatricians don't recommend aerosols for kids, as the particles can be inhaled, and kids can't hold their breath.
Which Sunscreen should I use?
I want you to love your SPF so that you use it every day. But I also want it to work. I generally prefer a physical SPF (zinc/titanium dioxide) as I like to reduce chemical exposure on the skin, which has a lot of immune cells.
Sensitive skin
Uberzinc: SPF 15: for red, sensitive, rosacea-prone, and acne-prone skin. This is our best-selling SPF, for a reason.
Pigmentation/Melasma
Growing evidence suggests that tinted sunscreens, which block UVA, UVB, and visible light, are better for patients who suffer from pigmentation and melasma.
Post Procedure
It's important to use a product that is going to nurture vulnerable skin after a procedure such as IPL, lasers, peels, tixel, or tattoo removal. The product should also improve healing.
Uberzinc - no words for how much I love this product.
Oxygenetix SPF 30 (especially if you have had PRP or dermal fillers, as it is great for covering up redness or bruising). Patented formulation to reduce infection and oxygenate the skin.
Dermaceutic K Ceutic SPF50 - for sensitive skin.
Body
Use enough! Each limb: 1/4 teaspoon.
Airyday Pretty in Zinc (for neck/décolletage): SPF 50
Over Makeup
In addition to using sunscreen, be sensible and avoid being outside for long periods between 10 am and 2 pm, seek shade when possible, and wear sun-protective clothing, a scarf, broad-brimmed hats, and polarizing UV-blocking sunglasses.
My tips
The Canopy Bay is a range of UPF50+ Maximum sun protection headwear designed by skin cancer survivor Deborah Hutton, offering a sophisticated and stylish solution for every outdoor lifestyle. Marcelle sells these locally: https://trinityrowbymarcelle.com/
Wear a long-sleeved (sexy) High SPF swimwear at the beach. It's just not worth it! You can buy these online:
